Ceramic cats, objects d’art and a designer bows out at Paris Fashion Week Men’s
2024-06-23
Parisian Elegance Shines at Spring/Summer 2025 Fashion Week
The curtain has fallen on Paris Fashion Week Men's, marking the end of the highly anticipated spring/summer 2025 runway shows. While the fashion world barely has time to catch its breath before diving into the haute couture presentations, it's worth taking a moment to reflect on the exquisite collections showcased by renowned labels like Dior Men, Loewe, and Hermès.
Dior Men's spring/summer 2025 collection was a captivating fusion of art and fashion, with the ethereal melodies of Kate Bush's "Cloudbusting" providing the perfect backdrop. Creative director Kim Jones drew inspiration from the whimsical ceramic works of South African artist Hylton Nel, infusing the runway with a sense of playful sophistication.The collection featured breezy summer suits and shorts in soothing hues of mid-blue and oatmeal, complemented by mushroom-toned wide-legged trousers paired with wrap skirts. Pale pink zipped jackets and knitted tank tops adorned with Nel's artwork added a touch of softness, while long coats in bitter chocolate brown and beaded, embellished scarves draped around the models' shoulders exuded a sense of refined luxury.The standout elements, however, were the giant ceramic cats standing vigil on the runway, mirrored in smaller versions clutched by the models, and Nel's drawings displayed across tops and jumpers. This seamless integration of art and fashion created a whimsical, yet elevated, aesthetic that captivated the audience.
Loewe: Capturing the Essence of Movement
If Dior Men went big with art, Loewe took a more subtle approach, placing modest sculptures along the runway, including an original chair by the renowned Scottish architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh. These objects framed a collection that celebrated the concept of movement, with wires sewn into hems and necklines to hold the edges as if caught in the wind.Creative director Jonathan Anderson, who also helms his eponymous label JW Anderson, incorporated long pheasant feathers that swayed with every step, adding a touch of ethereal elegance. The collection also featured crumpled necklines around the jawline and elongated Derby shoes, while the trousers underwent a transformation, starting as slim and tailored before shifting into extra-baggy silhouettes held together on one hip.This interplay of structure and fluidity, combined with the unexpected details, created a collection that embodied a sense of dynamic energy, challenging the traditional boundaries of menswear.
Hermès: Effortless Elegance Redefined
As always, Hermès remained true to its mantra of trendless dressing, a methodology that is increasingly embraced by other fashion houses. The spring/summer 2025 collection from the esteemed French label delivered a masterclass in effortless summer style, perfect for a day on the yacht, lounging in St. Tropez, or dining at fabulous eateries.The polished nonchalance was evident in the precisely cropped trousers, shirts cut with exacting volume, and jackets and coats packed with technical marvels. Hermès effortlessly blended timeless sophistication with modern functionality, creating a collection that embodied the brand's unwavering commitment to quality and timeless appeal.
Dries Van Noten: A Farewell to Remember
As the curtain fell on Dries Van Noten's eponymous label after 38 years, the designer chose to buck the trend for final shows and look forward, not back. The collection was a visual delight, centered around gleaming, molten metallics and showcased on a runway covered in crushed tin foil.Looks in gold and silver shimmered past, interspersed with high-gloss satin and shiny, sheer layers. Utility jackets in army green featured brass emblems stitched around the shoulders, while roomy tops and shorts were cut from what could have been ultra-light silver mesh.Filled with light, color, and a handful of patterns, this final co-ed show was a testament to Van Noten's enduring legacy and his ability to seamlessly blend the unexpected. It was a perfect note for the designer to bow out on, leaving an indelible mark on the fashion industry.
