Tailoring Triumphs at Milan Fashion Week: A Relaxed Elegance Emerges for 2025

The recent Milan Fashion Week Men's event has once again showcased the enduring allure of tailoring in the world of menswear. As the industry gears up for the spring/summer 2025 season, a distinct shift towards a more relaxed and laid-back aesthetic has emerged, offering a refreshing antidote to the worrying global climate.

Redefining Sartorial Sophistication: A Softer, More Fluid Approach

Valentino's Unexpected Debut

The fashion world was caught off guard by Valentino's surprise unveiling of its resort 2025 collection, led by the brand's new creative director, Alessandro Michele. Picking up where he left off at Gucci, Michele's signature decadence and complex layering were on full display, with turbans, clashing patterns, embroidered details, and even fur cuffs. However, this new collection felt lighter, more refined, and with greater polish, signaling a seamless transition to his new role at Valentino.

Gucci's Surf-Inspired Offering

Over at Gucci, Michele's successor, Sabato De Sarno, delivered his second men's collection, drawing inspiration from the world of surfing. Comprising short shorts, boxy shirts in bright dolphin and hibiscus prints, and round-toe slippers, the collection exuded an energetic and upbeat vibe. The use of bold and skillfully mixed colors, such as green or lilac with bitter chocolate brown, added a touch of optimism to the lineup.

Prada's Ode to Youth

At Prada, co-designers Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada focused on youth, declaring that "youth is the future ... it is hope." The collection featured looks that purposely looked lived in, with shrunken jumpers, cardigans with notably too-short sleeves, and shirts twisted around the body. Pops of vibrant colors, including Barbie pink, hot orange, and acid green, punctuated the otherwise sombre palette, creating a youthful and playful aesthetic.

Fendi's Archival Inspiration

As Fendi prepares to celebrate its 100th anniversary, menswear and accessories designer Silvia Venturini Fendi turned to the company's archive for inspiration. The result was the unveiling of a new crest made from four of the house's motifs, including the famous double-F, which was emblazoned across all manner of shirts, tops, and jackets. The clothes themselves were relaxed and carefree, such as sleeveless rugby tops, boxy shirts, and semi-sheer shirts.

Dolce & Gabbana's Artisanal Showcase

Dolce & Gabbana's "Italian Beauty" collection showcased the brand's commitment to artisanship, opening with a jacket woven from wicker, a material more typically seen on chairs. This technique was then translated into more wearable pieces, such as jackets woven from fine strips of white or black leather, demonstrating the designers' skill. The collection also featured a shift away from their signature tight tailoring, towards a more relaxed and summery aesthetic, including sheer polo shirts, lightweight jackets, and breezy shirts.

Emporio Armani's Languid Elegance

Emporio Armani embraced a languid mood, with the designer's signature fluid suiting tied at the waist with woven leather belts and tucked into heavy boots. This silhouette, which evokes a sense of abandoning "tough city living" in favor of "fresh and enchanting softness," is expected to be widely emulated. The collection centered on simplicity, with tuxedo jackets in soft velvet worn open, roomy trousers, and cropped jackets with safari-like pockets, all in a soft color palette of lilac, Armani's signature greige, faded peach, off-white, and shades of sand.