Gastrodiplomacy: The Culinary Frontier of International Relations
Gastrodiplomacy, the strategic use of food to foster diplomatic ties, is no longer confined to political summits and high-profile events. Across the globe, immigrant communities are leveraging their native cuisines to connect with new audiences, share their cultural heritage, and even earn a living. One such story unfolded in the heart of Athens, where a Japanese cafe stood out as a unique diplomatic initiative, shedding light on the rich history and evolving landscape of gastrodiplomacy.
Uncovering the Diplomatic Flavors of Athens
A Culinary Oasis in the Heart of Athens
Nestled on a deserted street in Athens, a Japanese cafe called Sawyer stood out as a curious anomaly. Surrounded by boarded-up storefronts, this tiny establishment defied the city's typical preference for outdoor seating and bustling activity. Yet, it was not just the cafe's location that piqued the interest of diplomat Dan Hong; it was the unique array of Japanese products lining the shelves, from obscure seasonings to dried fungi, that hinted at a deeper story.
Unraveling the Japanese Embassy's Involvement
As Hong delved deeper, he discovered that Sawyer was no ordinary cafe. The owner revealed that the Japanese Embassy had been supporting the establishment, with the Japanese ambassador himself a frequent patron. This revelation sparked Hong's curiosity, leading him to explore the historical and contemporary role of food in diplomacy.
The Enduring Presence of Gastrodiplomacy
Hong's research uncovered a rich tapestry of gastrodiplomacy, tracing its roots back to ancient Greece. Aristotle's writings discussed how food was used to foster a sense of community among ambassadors of ancient city-states. More recently, French diplomat François de Callières noted the power of shared meals in diplomacy, observing that "when people are a trifle warmed by wine, they often disclose secrets of importance."
The Rise of Gastrodiplomacy Initiatives
The term "gastrodiplomacy" was first coined in 2002, in reference to Thailand's Global Thai Program. This ambitious public diplomacy initiative aimed to leverage the country's national cuisine to build diplomatic relationships abroad. The program provided financial support, including million in cheap government loans, to Thais setting up restaurants overseas. It also offered consultancy services and negotiated visa agreements and tariff reductions to facilitate the export of Thai ingredients.
Gastrodiplomacy Goes Global
The success of Thailand's Global Thai Program inspired other countries to follow suit. South Korea invested million in funding chefs to open restaurants abroad and attend cooking schools worldwide, integrating its culinary diplomacy with the broader "Korean Wave" of cultural exports. Peru, too, enlisted celebrities to promote its cuisine on a dedicated website, further expanding the reach of gastrodiplomacy.
The Sushi Police and the Pursuit of Authenticity
One of the most intriguing aspects of gastrodiplomacy uncovered by Hong was the Japanese government's "sushi police" initiative. In 2006, Japan commissioned a task force to assess the authenticity of Japanese restaurants around the world. The sushi police found that a third of the 80 Japanese restaurants surveyed in Paris did not meet their standards of authenticity. While the government attempted to issue authenticity certificates and exclude non-compliant establishments from their recommendations, the long-term impact of this initiative remains questionable.The story of Sawyer and the broader landscape of gastrodiplomacy reveal the evolving and multifaceted nature of this diplomatic tool. From ancient Greece to modern-day Athens, food has long been a powerful medium for fostering international connections and understanding. As countries continue to harness the power of cuisine, the culinary frontier of diplomacy promises to remain a dynamic and intriguing field of exploration.
